Appliqué Patches | Use in European Textiles and Fashion

Appliqué Patches | Use in European Textiles and Fashion

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Appliqué is a technique of completing a fabric that has been in usage for centuries in assorted cultures. Appliqué patches in the context of textile and fashion in Europe have a long history in terms of reflecting the pro-active artistic periods as well as the actual demand.

Starting in the practical functional object and moving to an aesthetic adornment, appliqué patches have brought their influence to European clothing and textiles and advanced into an art of self- expression and opulent design.

1. Appliqué, Developed in Europe

Appliqué as a decoration kind was already used by the ancient Egyptians and people of Central Asia, however it emerged as a specific kind of a technique in European countries during the Middle Ages. Appliqué as a technique was first utilized in Europe in the early ages to cover up wear and other fabrics. Tiny leftovers of fabric were used to treat old clothes, repair rips or simply attempt to lengthen the useful life of a piece of fabric—a commodity which was costly and hard to come by.

However, even in these early stages, appliqué patches were not only an object, a utilitarian thing; they were also and not only a fashion accessory, a symbol, a sign. People started even adding decorations on stitches and making complex patterns to bring in the aesthetics on what was otherwise a repair job.

Eventually appliqué gained recognition for its beauty and was used not only to repair garments but rather elaborate designs for fancy clothing, fabrics, and even furniture and tapestries.

2. Medieval and Renaissance Appliqué

In the medieval period, appliqué was used in religious attire and in that of royalty signaling the start of the civilization of this art in Europe. Among medieval applique works of art there is the famous piece of art called bayeux tapestry which narrates the historic events preceding Norman conquest of England.

Not being an appliqué method, the large scaled embroidered tapestry does however have many characteristics which originated from the evolution of the appliqué as a form of textile decoration.

In the simplified ecclesiastical garments use of appliqué patches mutually transformed into one of the ways of the public demonstration of the religious symbols, coats of arms, and decorative borders.

Religious places like churches and monasteries made beautiful textiles for the altar clothes, priests’ garments and as hangings. At this time appliqué also became one of the ways for the warmening and adding the ornament with the valuable fabrics like the silk and velvet by the members of the wealth and nobility.

Concerning the Renaissance, appliqué became an essential component of the fashion of the medieval European countries especially Italy and France. The fancy dress with embroidery and sequins and extravagant accessories that were embroidered with gold and silver thread work and stones and pearls were in fashion as was the trend to wear draped fabrics such as velvet and brocade.

These garments served both as novelties of the new social status and as manifestations of a new approach to culture and art, of the affiliation with the burgeoning Renaissance movement.

3. Appliqué in the Baroque and Rococo Periods

During the period called Baroque and Rococo at the end of the 17th and in the 18th century Europe the thirst for luxury was great, and applique was used in clothing and furniture design. While during this period, appliqué patches are becoming more and more gaudy, elaborate motifs such as flora, fauna, and scroll work were used.

In France in the reign of Louis XIV, appliqué has reached the peak of its ornamental value. It was during the king’s court that people adopted luxurious dressing including the use of embroidery and application among other garment features to both male and female attire.

Textiles produced in France were associated with affluence and regal influence thus many garments were adorned with ornate embroidered badges of silk, lace together with metallic components.

This lavish style persisted to the Rococo period, which featured even lighter and less serious designs than that of the Baroque period. Appliqué patches were also employed in the production of rather intricate flower designs on gowns, and this gave the A lining with femininity and elegance.

The tedious workmanship of these aprons in the periods of these arias depict the workmanship of European handwork and popular culture penchant for the opulent and the garnishment of embellishment.

4. The Industrial Revolution and the Democratization of Appliqué

The Industrial Revolution that began in the 19th century revolutionized the production of textiles and fashion in Europe. Gradually people started using machines to produce fabrics and embroider them, and that is why applying patches became more popular even for the middle classes.

This kind of craft was previously done by hand and could only be afforded by the richest people in society but with the introduction of machines, many more people could now access appliqué designs on their outfits, home decorations among others.

Towards the end of the Victorian period specific process of applique was used in the context of the Arts and Crafts movement which aimed at the revival of craftsmanship and the aesthetic value of handmade items.

To counter this, artisans began to reintroduce older methods of fashion techniques such as the appliqué method to design and produce differentiated hand Hybridity Industrialization. Appliqué patches were used in Victorian fashion for decorating dresses and shawls and other fashion accessories, and even in curtains and tablecloths with flowers, leafs and vines.

At the same time, it became less and less decorative and more and more practical in relation to every-day veste. Machine-made clothes also developed and so were used in situations where there was a need to patch a garment or reinforce in areas such as on working clothes using the appliqué patches.

This practical use of appliqué was its further evolution from the earlier part of history which now incorporated aesthetics of the age.

5. Appliqué in 20th-Century Fashion

The advancements in the use of appliqué patches in the overall fashion of Europe in the 20 th Century. Appliqué, therefore, evolved to fill the gap created by mass production of cheap fabrics for clothing and the general use of different designs on clothes as an avenue for self expression.

During the period between 1920s and early 1930s, appliqué was incorporated in elements of flapper dresses, coats and accessories and incorporated geometric patterns and complicated designs normally associated with the Art Deco movement.

Appliqué patches were also widespread in subcultures, which came into vogue after the post-war period, including the 1960s and the 1970s. Those motorcyclists, punk rockers, bikers and the hippie culture added applique patches in their denim jackets, vests, and bags so as to feature their biker affiliation, cause, attitude or outlook on life.

This period can be said to be when appliqué patches transitioned from being perceived as fashionable accessories and utility to being used as an emblem of freedom of expression and protest.

6. Appliqué in Contemporary Fashion

At the present time, appliqué patches are included in the list of trends of both the elite direction and the streetwear direction. Some other fashion brands that have used appliqué patterns in their merchandise include copyright, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, among others, where the appliqué technique was used in the designing of artistic work on jackets, bags, and other fashion accessories.

Appliqué has also been adopted by the streetwear brands where they sell patches that can be sewn or ironed on the clothes to form a specific symbol or slogan or any form of artwork.

Conclusion

The change and development of appliqué patches in Europe textiles and fashion is correlated to changes in society, art and industry. Perhaps being simple and versatile made the appliqué stand the test of time – from being a functional technique in sewing to being used for producing artistic masterpiece and economic sustainability.

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